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Arvada [Change Location]

Blog Entry 4 of 39 Got a small plumbing job and don't want to pay big
Does the sink clog up on you every month? Wondering if you need a water filter and what type should you get? How about paying someone to winterize your sprinklers and swamp cooler when you could do it for next to nothing. When is it time to call in a professional and what do I look for in choosing one. I am a master plumber who's been in the business for 25 years. I've worked for many outfits (some reputable, some not) and I'm here to help as I dive into the world of journalism. C'mon in and lay on the couch...now...what's bothering you? Contact Dr. Plumb by clicking "send me a message" in the contributor information box

Replace that galvanized steel water pipe


Most Arvada homes have galvanized water pipe. Chances are if you have galvanized pipe (we'll call it GP) then it's the original system installed in the home. My home was built in 1953 and contains some GP and some copper pipe.

The problem with the GP is that it is steel. When exposed to moisture, steel rusts. Galvanization is a process in which the pipe is coated with a layer of zinc. This provides a barrier between the water and steel.

The basic drawback to gp is that it attracts calcium which collects and builds up inside the pipe. The inner diameter slowly closes over time until water is no longer able to flow at all.

This brings me to my next patient, Brendan Harrington, who writes:
Dr.Plumb - I want to change a 20-foot line from galvanized to copper in a crawl space in my house. Where do I start? Any special tricks? I'm going from a 3/4" house line, out to a hose bibb. Most of the house has already been changed, but I want to do this one myself. Thanks for the advice...

First, you may want to contact the city and see if a permit is required.

Planning is the next key:
Make a list of all the material you need: pipe in linear feet, 90's, reducer, hangers, hose bibb, etc.

Type of material: Pipe-copper, pex

Tools: Torch, pipe-cutters, sand-cloth, flux, solder, tape measure, etc.

Most people don't keep a torch in the house but if you want to solder your piping then a MAPP gas torch can purchased for around 40 bucks giving you everything you need. Most people want no part of soldering and there is an option for you (see comments on pex piping of my blog "Dr Plumb is in").

I'll need more specifics on what you're comfortable doing before I can instruct you further.

You'll need to make sure your main water valve is operable. This is very important and can turn a small job into a flood quicker than you can say, "I should have hired Dr. Plumb."

Turn the valve off and open all the fixtures (hose bibbs too) in the house you can. This will depressurize and drain the system. If water is still running after a few minutes (put your ear up to the main valve and listen for any flow), you can shut the water off at the meter pit in your front yard.

Water off? Good, now removing the GP is your next step. Use a hack saw to cut the line near the transition from GP to copper and have a five gallon bucket ready to catch any water remaining in the system. Unscrew remaining piece of galvanized from copper.

I'll need to know how the pipe adapts from GP to copper. Is the GP threaded directly to the copper? Is there a union (dielectric)?

Take out the remaining GP including the old hose bibb. I recommend buying a new frost-free hose bibb (I'll cover those in a future blog), preferably Woodford. Install the new hose bibb from the outside and attach it to the veneer of the house. Pay attention to the instructions of your frost-free hose bibb. Improper installation can negate the flood protection this fixture offers.

Most Arvada homes have brick so a good set of anchors (blues and screws) is your best bet. Anchoring the bibb to the wall is important. I have one customer who's dog pulled their hose bibb not only out from the wall but completely separated the solder joint and flooded the basement. Nice dog huh?

Attaching the bibb to the wall also keeps it level and pointing the spout in whatever direction you wish while piping it.

From there you are almost home free. Using pex will make this job much easier. Your only roadblock will be finding adapters from the hose bibb to pex and then from pex to your original copper. That "big" hardware store can help you with all of this material and a torch should not be needed.

Be cautioned!!! I would not put pex or "shark bite" fittings (available at plumbing supply shops) in a place that will later be inaccessible. Seeing as how this is in your crawlspace, I think that pex is the perfect application for you.

One last item Brendan, your hose bibb will be 1/2" as will the line you run to it so you'll need to reduce that 3/4" line to 1/2".

I know that I've thrown a lot at you but put some time and thought into it. Keep in contact with me and don't be afraid of the job.

I'm here for you
Dr. Plumb

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Showing 1-4 of 4 comments

Great little article on galvanized and modern PEX. Can you send your email address?

Thanks to T.C. and Carrie for the input. T.C., The GP "waste" lines are fine. The above blog pertains only to "water" lines which convey potable water to the fixtures of your home. One of the rules of thumb is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." You're in good shape brother (or sister). Carrie, The Rocky featured your pex question in the print edition and I also saw your Bush blog. Congrats

Hey--what about galvanized drain pipe? I have copper supply, but galvanized drain pipe (house built in '62). Should I tear that out?

I like the Pex plug! Our house has a couple of GP drains that are going to be replaced with the Pex.
Showing 1-4 of 4 comments