In French, it's "Le Rue Bourbon", but most people know it as "Bourbon Street". It's the heart of the Old Square, Le Vieux Carre, and the soul of the French Quarter. Whatever you call it, and no matter what language you speak, Bourbon Street defines New Orleans and is the city's very heart and soul. It's all about the night.
A man recently told me he didn't like Bourbon Street. He said it was "smelly" and he didn't see the attraction other than the unique architecture. Chances are good that man visited Bourbon Street during the day. Bourbon Street, you see, wears two faces, and her daytime face gives little hint of the face she wears at night.
During the day, it's all business on Bourbon Street. There are bars, restaurants, hotels, and tourist shops. All put on a civil "daytime" countenance that is all the look of innocence. The "smell" the man spoke of is there, but it is rooted in New Orleans' past, and I like to think of it as the "smell of history". When New Orleans was built, there were no dumpsters, trash trucks or alleyways. People just threw everything into the street. To preserve the architecture of the city, the French Quarter remained that way: without alleyways. So, now as then, everything makes its way to the streets before being picked up by the city workers. Every day, people sweep, scrub and hose the street clean, but despite their efforts, some of the evidence remains in a light "aroma". You might notice it during the day, but at night, when Bourbon Street puts on her "different" face, it becomes secondary and fades into the darkness.
As the sun sets, police block the street off to automobile traffic and the spirit of the street comes alive. Visitors can buy a beverage, a slice of pizza, or a sandwich, take them into the street and freely walk down Bourbon Street from Rue Conti until the lights end. Then they turn around to walk back, stopping along the way to peek in doorways and see what is happening in this place or that. You can get a "Hurricane" at Pat O'Brien's or a "Hand Grenade" at the Tropical Isle and take it with you into the street. People walk up and down all night, drinks in hand, enjoying the variety of food, music and entertainment. It's like one big, nightly block party.
On my recent trip to New Orleans, in one night on Bourbon Street we heard street performers playing Dixieland Jazz, a band playing hip-hop, another playing Zydeco, the blues, some rock, and even lounge music from a piano. There's a lot of music on Bourbon Street, and these are no amateurs. New Orleans has an abundance of musical talent and many are excellent musicians. The best display their talents nightly on Bourbon Street, but there's a lot more than music there. It's also a visual extravaganza.
You'll see every kind of person and every kind of attraction on that street at night. We saw both the young and the old, tour groups from South Carolina, families sight-seeing, bikers at Embers, street actors, a number of foreigners and just about everything in between. In a unique way, all seem to share a mutual bond with none of the "distinctions" that plague their daytime lives. It is a gathering place for revelers who know how to enjoy freedom the way only Americans can. You don't have to wait for Mardi Gras to get a taste of "Fat Tuesday". Groups rent the balconies of Bourbon Street hotels to toss beads and other "throws" at passersby below. There are also strip clubs and dancers on Bourbon Street, but they aren't really the main attractions. You only have to go in if you want to, and I was having too much fun outside to want to go in and "sit down".
This activity goes on all night, and every night until after the sun comes up. Then, the workers with their brooms and hoses come out. They sweep, scrub and hose the streets clean again so Bourbon Street can put on her day face and hide away until dark. Bourbon Street is uniquely New Orleans and it's all about the night. No matter what language you speak or what life you live during the day, nights on Bourbon Street will win your affection and you'll find it difficult not to think of them when you think of New Orleans. For many others and me, Bourbon Street defines New Orleans and we think of the nights we spent there every time the sun begins to set.
This is part III in a series of stories by Stan Dyer called Where Y'at New Orleans.