Our first trip of the summer combined a visit with family in Anchorage with a cruise. We flew into Anchorage very late on Sunday night, and checked into the EconoLodge near the airport. When we got up, we looked out the window to see nothing but the side of another building only a few feet away. Grumped being in Alaska, with all its scenery, and yet having no view, we stopped at the front desk on the way to breakfast. I asked if there were any other rooms available & fortunately there were. So after breakfast, we picked up our rental car a block or so away and moved to a room higher up. From there we at least had a view out over the building next door. And, if we looked out at just the right angle, there was an actual mountain.

We enjoyed 4 days with the extended Alaskan Tapey family of 18, shopping, dining, watching soccer & baseball games, & going to Anchorage's indoor water park. It was very easy to get around Anchorage. Traffic backups were limited to "rush hours" and a few construction projects. We also visited the Earthquake Park, commemorating the great quake of 1964. It had devastated several communities. We also took a drive up to Flat Mountain Park to get a panoramic view of the city. Our sharp-eyed niece spotted a lone moose, so far down the hill that, even with a zoom lens and later enlargement, it's barely recognizable.

Our cruise started at the Anchorage downtown Marriot where we got our boarding passes for the train to Seward. They bused us out to the railroad station, which is right at the airport. On the way we encountered a bedraggled moose, right beside the road, grazing along the airport fence. The train was all special cars designed for scenic viewing, with large windows going up and even forming part of the roof. Because they had fewer passengers than usual, we got a "booth" for four to ourselves for the duration of the trip.

The weather was fantastic & the scenery was breath taking. We learned that you didn't go walking out to the edge of the water at low tide, because what elsewhere would be hard-packed sand, here was silt - a muck like quicksand & extremely dangerous. While we were enjoying the pristine views of mountains, woods, streams, and glaciers, we spotted various wildlife, including a mother moose & her calf. At one point, we came upon an area where there had been an avalanche that knocked some train cars off the tracks, spilling large quantities of building materials, from Home Depot destined I suppose for a new building in Seward.

We reached Seward around 6 PM, where we had to go through the ship's check-in & security lines, just like boarding an airliner. Only we were boarding Celebrity's "Millennium," not the largest but a fairly large vessel as cruise ships go. By the time we got aboard, we had to hurry to make our scheduled dinner seating. We had chosen early seating, starting at 6 PM, and had been assigned to a table of about 12, including 2 couples from California, one couple from Florida, an 82-year old mom and daughter from Florida along with another daughter now from Michigan, as well as a single gentleman from Spokane. He does this every year, so he was able to give us lots of pointers about the etiquette of sailing.

We were already mentally prepared for temptations to overeat, but even so the menu was so vast and scrumptious, that it was impossible to resist indulging in something from just about every course. After dinner, we went back to the room and unpacked our luggage, which had been delivered while we were at dinner. Our room had a veranda, or balcony, and lots of mirrors, which made the room seem larger. I did not think I would have trouble with seasickness, but did and was glad that I had motion-sickness pills along.

The next day was spent sailing into Disenchantment Bay to see the Hubbard Glacier, the largest tidewater glacier on the North American continent. The weather was fantastic, sunny & warm, & we had great views from our veranda. We could also go up on the next deck & have different views of the glacier and the small icebergs around us.

Earlier in the day we had to attend a life boat drill that we had missed on Friday, & also a briefing on our "ports of call." It was nothing more than a self-promotion for the company's jewelry stores on shore. That evening was the first of two formal dinners. Except for dressing up a little nicer, the meal was like the rest of our evening sit-downs. We were given 2 menus from which to choose, the usual (always available) and another featuring specialties from another country.

After dinner we went to the theater for the captain's toast & to see the show "Simply Ballroom," a Broadway review sort of stage production with a dozen or so dancers. And then back to our stateroom. One thing that helped keep our weight in check was the long walks to the restaurants as well as entertainment venues, usually on the opposite end of the ship from our room.

Sunday was our first day of sightseeing at a port. We landed in Juneau, & Bob & I started off the day taking the tram up the mountain & getting a view of the city & surrounding area. We also were able to take a short nature walk & see a female eagle that was being nursed back to health. We also did a walking tour of the town, finding the Russian Orthodox church built in 1894, the State Capitol building, a 40 foot totem pole, & City Hall. Our tour was a bit strenuous as the streets are quite steep.

We headed back to the ship for lunch & to get ready for our next adventure, whale watching. We took a bus ride to the small boat docks, stopping along the way to take a picture of Mendenhall Glacier. We also spotted 3 eagles on the way to the boat. It was a double-decked tourist launch, perhaps 40 feet in length. We had a choice of seating, so I decided to go up on top while Bob stayed down below. I found a good place along the rail from which to take pictures.

We saw several humpback whales & 9 orcas in all. One of the humpback whales breached right at the edge of the boat. I was so excited to get it on film. I decided to use "movie mode" to avoid the shutter-delay problem of most digital cameras. Unfamiliar with just how it worked, I later found that I had several minutes worth of people's rears and chatty comments as well as the whale action that I wanted.

We truly enjoyed seeing these huge creatures at play. They seemed to be having fun as well. By the time we got back to the ship, we were pretty tired.

So we opted not to go to the regular, sit-down meal in the dining room. Instead, we went for a quick bite at the buffet, leaving time to take advantage of the thermal pool & a relaxing hot tub.

Monday was our only early morning excursion. The ship had moved up to Skagway during the night, and we had to catch a bus for the trip up White Pass by 8:20 AM. It was cloudy, but not really cold, until we got to the top of the pass, over the boundary into Canada. The bus driver told us how gold seekers heading for the Klondike were rather foolish at first, arriving with meager supplies, thinking that they could buy what they needed in Skagway or along the way. But they couldn't. So the Canadian government made it a law that no one could cross into Canada with less than 2,000 pounds worth of provisions.

Since the terrain was rugged, there was no way they could get such a load to the gold fields in one trip. It actually took several. Of course there was a lot of thievery. So the Mounties required prospectors to put an identification number on all of their belongings. And, if anyone was found with another person's provisions, the Mounties would arrest that person, and penalties were severe.

Eventually, a train route was built up the pass to Dawson City. It took 30,000 men 2 years to complete it. Later came the highway. Now, trains as well as buses haul tourists up the pass, inspiring everyone with views of mountains, streams, and waterfalls, as well as tales of life in the gold rush days. We passed over a rather unique suspension bridge, designed to withstand occasional earthquakes, and then returned to Skagway. At the edge of town, we stopped at a local cemetery & walked up to Reid Falls, named after a local hero. We were back aboard the ship in plenty of time for lunch, having worked up pretty good appetites from our excursion ashore.

Even though I had planned on going back into Skagway to window shop, I felt a little tired, and opted to stay on the ship. The afternoon was spent watching TV and dozing off & on until dinner time. Sometimes it's nice not to have anything to do, and not do it. Dinner was at 6 PM as usual. By this time some of our table mates were losing patience with our being served almost last every evening. It was taking 2 hours to complete the meal, from start to finish. What had started out as great fun was becoming something of an ordeal.

On the way back to the room, we stopped to listen to a classical string trio that actually did a nice job on a piece written originally for an orchestra. Back on our veranda we had a great view of the fjord as we our ship was once again sailing back toward open water, on our way to Icy Strait Point. There the ship would not dock, but anchor offshore instead. It would then transport anyone who wanted to go ashore by means of a "tender." The tender was actually one of the ship's lifeboats, a covered, motorized launch, capable of hauling dozens of people at a time.

We had a leisurely morning, and then headed for shore in time to make our scheduled shore events. Our first stop was at the shops, located in what was once the Hoonah Packing plant. It also served now as a museum, featuring many of the machines used in preparing and canning salmon in the old days. I found some gifts for friends & a pretty t-shirt for myself. Proceeds from one of the shops were dedicated to support of the local school.

We walked along the beach & watched the zip liners come whizzing down the mountain, and jerking to a stop at the bottom. Hoonah claims to have the longest zip line in the world, a whole mile long. We then headed for the "nature tram" ride we had booked. We were delayed a bit at the start, waiting for a dad who had gotten separated from his family. Then, after we were underway and had gone only a couple of hundred yards into the woods, the driver began having trouble negotiating a steep hill. And, when he shifted down and tried to start out again, something snapped in the transmission or drive shaft, and we were stranded.

We had to walk back to the starting point, with driver and guides warning us all the way to stick together because this area is known for its bears. Once back, we were given the option of a refund or a tour of the town of Hoonah. We opted for the tour. It is a small village with 2 churches (a combined Lutheran/ Presbyterian one & a Salvation Army Corps.

We learned a lot about the Hoonah Tlingt culture from the native guide. They have 2 family groups, the ravens & the eagles. Rather than remaining separate and being rivals, they are supposed to mingle. A raven is supposed to marry an eagle and vice versa. But the rule isn't strictly adhered to these days.

We passed by a neighborhood tavern called "The Office." It had been voted one of America's top 10 friendliest bars by "Esquire" magazine. It was owned by our guide's Aunt Mary. Of course, everyone in the tribes is considered an aunt, uncle or cousin. The total population is 700. Except for the tour boat visits, the island is quite isolated. It is very expensive to get off the island. A trip to Anchorage costs about $900. They can fly out, but most travel by boat or ferry.

After a stop at their school to see some totem poles & hand-carved canoes, some of the people talked the driver into working out a way to get some t-shirts from "The Office." The driver was not allowed to stop so passengers could go into the bar. But, if we combined orders and payments, and a deal was arranged ahead by cell phone, he would stop just long enough to complete the transaction through the bus window. They made over $150 from our brief, unscheduled stop.

We then went back to the dock area for an hour-long show "cultural heritage" show put on by a group of Tlingts. No photography was permitted during the show, but they did pose for pictures afterward. And they invited people from the audience to join in one of the dances. So I did. That fun was over too soon, as we had to head back to the ship before the last scheduled tendering, & get ready for our second formal dinner.

On our bed we found a bulletin, warning that there was an outbreak of the Norovirus, telling us what the staff was doing to control its spread, and advising everyone to take more precautions, like frequent hand watching and avoiding handshaking etc. When we to our table we were told that one of our group had talked to our waiter about the slow service. So it was somewhat better this time. And then everyone in the dining room was treated to a special celebration by the staff, followed by large helpings of Baked Alaska for dessert. We also had the treat of seeing a whale out the dining room window.

After supper we stopped at our room, and briefly took in the gorgeous view from our veranda. We then headed down to the show "I-Broadway." After about a half hour, Bob said he wasn't feeling very well, so he so didn't want to stay until the end. But I did. By the time I got to the room about an hour later, he was very sick. We contacted the medical personnel right away, as we were supposed to. But it took them until 12 to call me back, & until 3 AM before they finally got to our room. I found out later that close to 200 people had come down with the virus. I had to fill out paper work detailing all of Bob's meals, snacks, locations, & activities for the previous 4 days. Not an easy task, even with two fairly good memories working on it.

The medics told Bob he was under quarantine (confined to quarters) for the next 48 hours, & I was likewise restricted for 24 hours. Bob slept most of the day, sipping Gatorade (or a powdered equivalent of electrolytes in water) and nibbling dry toast at times. Being confined wasn't so bad because they gave us some free movies via the TV, and I had the veranda. I watched the "Race to Witch Mountain." It was fun but not very good quality version. I could imagine how hard it would have been if we'd had an inside room. They also provided us with free room service.

Bob was feeling a little better by evening & was able to keep some things down. So we started organizing our luggage, which had to be packed by 11 PM the next day in order to be taken to the airport. In the morning, I ate breakfast in the room with Bob, even though I'd been released from quarantine at 3 AM. I then headed out to guest relations to check out a strange charge on our bill, and then to the computer center to e-mail our friends who were going to be picking us up at the airport the next afternoon. It cost $7 for a little over 10 minutes of computer time.

Then I went to check out the professional photographers' photos, taken from time to time while we were aboard. I did find 3 or 4 they'd taken of Bob & me, but only one was worth buying. While there, I ran into one of our tablemates & he invited me to join the rest of them at a different restaurant for the evening meal, because he said the service was worse than ever in spite of having to serve fewer people. So they decided it was time to take their business elsewhere in protest.

I then headed to the disembarkment lecture, & was glad I had because important information was given out, and they paraded out the entire ship's crew or most of it anyway. I checked in on Bob & then went off to lunch. In the afternoon I went up to attend a line-dancing class. And then the rest of the day was spent mostly just loafing and taking photos of the Inside Passage. At one point I went up to the 11 th deck & caught a unique mini-concert from a passing boat. They had a trumpeter playing "Amazing Grace," "God Save the Queen" (sounding like "My Country 'Tis of Thee" to Americans) plus a jazz tune. The only negative parts of the whole inside passage experience were the clear-cut logging sites in places.

I did enjoy the alternative meal with some of our tablemates, & was able to get the halibut steak that I had missed the night we had decided to eat at the buffet. I learned that one of the other couples at our table had also become ill with the virus. I headed back to the room to find Bob wasn't doing too well, probably because he had tried to eat too many solids too soon. But we did manage to finish packing so we could set our luggage out for overnight transfer to the airport. It was then that we informed that, because we had been involved with the virus, we were not to put our bags out, and we would have to do an early "walk-off" rather than the originally scheduled departure.

That meant we were going to have to carry our own luggage to the departure area the next morning, & had to be with the first group leaving at 7 AM. We got not only a written notice but phone calls as well, checking on Bob & making sure we knew of the new procedure for leaving the ship. So we didn't get to bed until after 11 PM, knowing we'd have to up before 5 AM in order to get ready, get breakfast, and make it to the rendezvous point in the cinema by 7 AM.

We did it. But I had to make 2 trips because Bob wasn't able to manage more than 1 suitcase, tugging it along the heavily carpeted hallways, to the other end of the ship, down the elevator, and into the cinema. It took me about 10 minutes to do a repeat trip for the rest of our stuff. From there on we thought we'd get some help. But no, and there wouldn't be any double tripping either. Piling our carry-ons on top of our suitcases, we headed for the ramp along with about 100 other passengers who had been sick, plus their families.

By this time we were really exhausted from the ordeal and upset about not getting any assistance. We weren't the only ones who needed help. A few, who were more obviously handicapped, or more obviously distressed, did get some assistance from a few baggage handlers who were called in. I could see that I couldn't pull the luggage up the ramp, and Bob decided he wouldn't. He'd "had it," and, stopping in the doorway, told one of those overseeing our departure, "No." I guess we made a scene, but we finally got some help. Not only did they haul our bags, but they ushered us through Canadian customs and immigration and packed us into a taxi to the airport.

I can understand that they were trying to protect their crew but they needed to have a little more empathy, and find a better way to treat their sick passengers. Perhaps we should have made our limitations and needs better known earlier. But we're both inclined, maybe from too many years in the military or schools, or both, to do what we're told and do they best we can.

As we were driven through Vancouver, we could see preparations were already underway the up-coming Winter Olympics. We kind of wished we'd scheduled in a day or two to visit the city. But we really just wanted to "be home" at that point. Since we were arriving well ahead of our flight time, we couldn't check our bags until later. And then, after hanging around the food court for a couple of hours, and then proceeding to the check-in area, we discovered a long line had formed. It took us 40 minutes to get rid of the suitcases.

Suddenly, it was almost all over. U.S. Customs and Immigration is located right there just after the Canadian security inspection in the Vancouver terminal, a testimony to our "special relationship," I guess. It certainly makes things a lot easier for everyone. Anyway, it was just another couple of hours until our flight, and then a surprisingly short ride to Denver. I slept all or the way back, and we were both very glad to be home.