Looks of confusion, concern and even shock are my experiences as I told friends and family that I would be touring Vietnam. Feeling apprehensive myself, I set off on this great journey.
I could feel I was far beyond the "Western" ways as we landed in Hanoi, spotting rice fields from the air and a water buffalo along the runway. The Vietnamese were warm friendly and kind, a wonderful welcome. They enjoyed practicing their English with us and were more than happy to answer our questions. I was comfortable walking about by myself and felt a sense of well being, that the people were generally happy with their lifestyle.
My first surprise was the traffic. Who would guess that this would become an integral part of our adventure? Rarely a car but motorcycles and bicycles as far as the eyes could see. Sometimes they obey the rules and other times went against them. Entire families, mysterious women with scarves around their faces, hats and long gloves (to keep their skin as light as possible) pigs, ducks and chickens heading off to market, people delivering their 6ft tall merchandise, all on motorcycles. And crossing the street! Look down and walk slowly as the motorcycles and bicycles maneuver around you.
My second surprise the architecture of Hanoi, a mix between Asian, Indian and French. This stately capital portrays an elegance and grace with its French influence, located in Northern Vietnam.
A cyclo tour is a relaxing way to best experience the city, pedaling through the colonial quarter, "36 streets and wares" and west lake district. Life is in abundance on the sidewalks of Hanoi, here locals stop for a haircut, enjoy a game of Chinese chess, eat their meals and just enjoy socializing with each other.
We were invited to the studio of Mai Hen and Anh Khanch two local artists whose works have been displayed and sold all over the world. Their studio was a piece of art in itself a hill tribe pole-house where even the walls surrounding the property were filled with art. We intermingled and learned what we could about their lives and their work.
We toured the tomb of Ho Chi Minh, saw the Presidential Palace and Ho Chi Minh home outback (the palace was just too much for him, he preferred a simpler lifestyle) and gave an offering at the Lotus Pagoda. I loved seeing the young school children out enjoying the experience. Two of us stopped for lunch at an open aired café where the local businessmen relished in each other's company, downing beers and eating to their hearts content. Our meal consisted of a beer; yummy lemon chicken and rice, total cost $1.80 per person! Nice indoor restaurants would run approximately $5.00 lunch/dinner for a drink and the meal.
We enjoyed a private performance by Hanoi's famed water puppet troupe at the Truong Chinh Theater. This form of art was created by the rice farmers during flood season when they had little to do. It combines the Vietnamese love for mythology with the fierce nationalistic pride that is encouraged in the country.
Then we were off the Hue, set in central Vietnam, halfway between Hanoi and Saigon. An important cultural, intellectual, and historical city, where the central government once reined. The charm of this timeless old city lies not only in its historical and architectural value, but also in the natural beauty of its location along the bank of Song Huong, or the fabled Perfume River. Here we boarded a Dragon boat and headed upstream to the Buddhist Temple of Thein Mu situated along the bank of the river. Monks living here go about their daily life gardening and teaching martial arts as we walked around and enjoyed in their tranquil surroundings.
Imagine eating a dinner only served to the Emperors and Empresses at the house of Mr. Phan Thuan An descendant of an imperial princess. He explained to us the theory behind Feng Shui and the altars each family displays in their house to honor the deceased. His daughters served us as they practiced their English and even relayed a few jokes; this was certainly a memorable event.
The tomb of Kahi Dinh was a marvelous site, set deep in the countryside. A striking contrast between its blackened exterior and the vibrant interior. Bright frescoes composed of many thousands of inlaid ceramic and glass fragments depicting various themes line the walls and pillars. I was astounded by the beauty that surrounded me.
A lovely drive via the Hai Vasn Cloudy Pass with a view of the South China Sea was an enchanting way to travel to Da Nang. We stayed at a gorgeous resort on the ocean, just down from China beach. And what beaches, at least 100-yards wide, fine powdery sand, the water comfortable with nice waves and no one around. Simply a great place to relax and unwind.
Our last stop Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon, South Vietnam; here sightseeing and some great shopping were on the agenda. I couldn't believe the prices; everything was so inexpensive, great pieces of art, silks, ceramics and so much more. We visited historic landmarks including the Old Saigon Post Office (a beautiful structure), Notre Dame Cathedral, former Presidential Palace complete with it's own Russian tank out front and Cholon, the city's bustling Chinatown. We also traveled into the countryside of Cu Chi to visit the extraordinary underground tunnel network built by Vietnamese guerrilla fighters during the war. There are 30-miles of tunnels that housed many of the villagers; equipped with living quarters, kitchens, a hospital and bunkers. Quite an odd feeling as you stoop very low and waddle though. Here we also viewed Ben Duoc Temple a splendid memorial dedicated to the Vietnamese who fought and died in the war set along the Saigon River.
Vietnam was an amazing adventure and I am thrilled that I was able to experience it; I would highly recommend it as a travel destination. I found the accommodations wonderful and yet the experience so different. Many people on my trip commented that it was like China 20 years ago. My best advice, get there and get there fast! It's changing every day and in just a matter of time it will be much more "Westernized" they are gearing up for tourism, and part of the experience may get lost along the way.
To Vietnam "cam on" (thank you) for an amazing journey!
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