Benny Blanco's Slice of the Bronx, the small pizza shop nestled in between Kilgore Books & Comics and Snake Pit on East 13th Avenue, is a much more pleasant dining experience than it once was.
The knock on this place has always been the bitter side of attitude you could expect to be served up by the hostile cashier who took your order. New Yorkers, of course, are notorious for being a little rude, so the service seemingly complimented the theme of an "authentic" Bronx pizzeria.
Those days, however, are long gone. The food is still the same, but the shop is now run by folks who mirror the makeup of the area - young, decidedly urban hipster types.
Admittedly, Benny's is a little trashy and rundown, which is also a reflection of the character of the neighborhood. The front door is covered with graffiti and stickers and fliers and concert promotions are scattered everywhere. Plus, there's no place to sit -- save for the traffic barrier outside -- and the waiting area can get a little cramped.
Whatever. It's
our trashy, rundown neighborhood pizza shop and Capitol Hill is better for it.
Though not fabulous, Benny Blanco's does serve decent New York-style pizza. Individual slices are big, the thin crust is flaky and buttery, the cheese plentiful and the toppings, while maybe not stunning, are generally worthy of the 50 cent asking price.
But that's essentially where it ends. Benny Blanco's is just a pizza place, nothing more, nothing less, except for the garlic knots, which I don't really recommend. Basically -- as they so often say in
Top Chef -- it is what it is.
It's a good neighbor, though, a place that compliments the dry cleaner, bar, music shop and used book store on the block. It's a place that is uniquely Denver, even if it does claim its namesake from a city on the other side of the country.
Thankfully, only in name, not in spirit.
Benny Blanco's Slice of the Bronx is located at 616 E. 13th Ave. in Capitol Hill. Call 303-831-1346 for info.