Standing in the check-out line at the supermarket, I noticed Rachael Ray's perky, airbrushed face staring at me from a magazine cover. As a chef with grizzled hands and a trove of recipes compiled over a lifetime in the kitchen, it was easy to feel contempt for the pop diva of the "30-Minute Meals."

I sneered back at Rachel Ray and emitted a low- grade growl. My 9-year old daughter looked up at me. "Sour grapes," she said. Whatever.

Too often dinnertime is about beating the clock, simple recipes, and convenience. I get it: Life is a mad house. Who has the time to peel onions, chop garlic, mince herbs, or simmer a sauce? There are places to go, people to see; the kids are on the Wii or watching the big screen TV. Therein lies the allure of Rachael Ray and the quick and easy recipe.

As the autumn days grow shorter and cooler, curtailing our outdoor lifestyle (soccer season is finally over), there is a rebellion brewing in the kitchen... and all roads lead to risotto. Risottooo -- it rhymes with sloooow. It is a creamy Italian rice dish made with white oval-shaped Arborio rice. A well-made risotto is soothing, rich, and perfect for a cold fall day. The texture is somewhere between a thick rice pudding and a hearty soup (a far cry from fluffy Uncle Ben's). The grains are suspended in a broth, stirred and cooked until they reach an al dente texture, and ultimately the whole dish achieves a dense, creamy consistency.

Risotto is a versatile dish, amenable to a variety of ingredients and interpretations. Over the years I have made risotto with roasted acorn squash, asparagus, green peas, wild mushrooms, butternut squash, shrimp, scallops, spinach, pumpkin, and even beets. It is up to your mood and imagination.

Preparing risotto may require a little time and energy, but you don't need a culinary degree to make it. It starts out like a soup, with a mirepoix of onions, garlic, and vegetables (like mushrooms or red peppers). The rice is added to the pan and cooked briskly over medium heat.

Then comes the wine and broth, but here is the important part: the liquids are not added all at once, but gradually are stirred in over the course of about twenty five minutes. At the finish, you swirl in shredded Parmesan, fresh herbs, and occasionally butter.

I understand that not every night is a "risotto" night. However, I have this dream: one evening in the near future, when everyone is home and there's no place to go, my family will gather at the dinner table. There is a big pot of risotto simmering on the stovetop. As we savor this authentic meal together and share stories about our day, the scent of Parmesan and sound of chatter and laughter fills the air; all televisions, computers, and smart phones are turned off. When the risotto is served, there is a brief silence as we all dig in and savor the moment.

It may be wishful thinking, but I think a slow-cooked meal like risotto can bring a family together. And hopefully none of my kids will mention Rachel Ray's latest yummo-cookbook.

Jay Solomon is the chef and owner of Jay's Patio Café, Jay's Parkside Café, and Jay's Hot Ticket Café, all located in downtown Denver.

Shrimp and Mushroom Risotto with Sherry
Here is one version of this versatile dish.

2 ½ tablespoons canola oil
½ yellow onion, diced
½ red bell pepper, diced
8 ounces mushrooms, sliced
4 large cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1/2 cup cream sherry plus 2 tablespoons
6 to 7 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth, warmed
24 to 30 medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, thawed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons butter
1 ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste


Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, bell pepper, mushrooms, and garlic and saute for about 7 minutes. Add the rice and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 4 minutes.
Add the ½ cup sherry and 2 cups of the broth, stirring well; cook for about 8 minutes. Add another 2 to 3 cups of broth and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes more; add the renaming broth, 2 tablespoons of sherry, and the shrimp and cook for 12 to 14 minutes more, stirring, until the rice and shrimp are tender.
Stir in the parsley, butter and cheese. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper to taste. Let stand for a few minutes and then serve in large pasta bowls. Pass any extra shredded Parmesan at the table.
Yield: Serves 6

Suggestions: If you prefer a thin risotto, use more broth. Hot water can be substituted for half the broth. Dry white wine also works (in place of sherry).