Look out Stapleton! Your label as "less sub, more urb" is finally being affirmed with the addition of the new and hip restaurant, the Berkshire. Located right on Stapleton's "Main Street," 29 th Street, Berkshire offers a cool, lounge-like Lodo atmosphere with a hip thirty-something crowd, and creative food dishes that rival some of the best downtown restaurants.

Enter the dimly lit Berkshire and the first thing you see is a stainless steel meat slicer with bagged cured meat hanging down from the ceiling. While many rustic restaurants will exploit this type of décor, it somehow still felt fitting in a humorous way paired with the modern décor of the rest of the restaurant, complete with flat screen plasma TVs that ONLY show a fire burning in a fireplace and an occasional log tossed on. Corny? No, it felt like a hip Lodo lounge yet comfy like I was at mom's house.

I was surprised to be greeted with a substantial, yet affordable, drink menu that included inventive martinis like the "Razzle Dazzle" and margaritas, and a smart wine list that categorizes each option by dryness, sweetness, and taste. I wish all restaurants categorized their wine menu like this!

The menu offers lots of creative concoctions that are delicious, memorable, and actually affordable for the quality of food served. While I typically bypass French onion soup, something told me not to discount this one. I was right not to. With herbed croutons scattered about and shredded gruyere that actually doesn't clump together in one piece (imagine that), it was the best French onion soup I have ever had ($5). In the mood for salad instead? Try the "Bacon 'n Eggs" salad ($8.50) with mixed field greens, frisee, bacon and poached eggs dressed with bacon-dijon vinaigrette. I had to cure my curiosity when I saw Stuffed Calamari ($9) on the menu. How in the world do you stuff calamari? Picture your Italian grandmother's famous Italian sausage with the skin of the calamari hugging it, tender and tasting almost like pasta, bathed in a spicy marinara sauce. I could have had more of that as my meal.

Now the main course. Want a sandwich? There's something for you here. The Ham & Cheese sandwich ($8.50) is not the kind that was in your lunchbox. This is a warm, lightly toasted baguette with serrano ham, fresh mozzarella that is light as a cloud, romaine, and roasted tomato drizzled in oil and vinegar. Want a bigger entrée? There are plenty of delicious choices, but make sure to try the Duck Confit ($16) on one of your visits. Tender and seasoned well, it is served with a bean cassoulet and apple-butter cornbread.

The service wasn't bad either. While I was sat at an oddly placed table that was next to the kitchen, the bar, AND the front door (imagine my luck!), I actually did not notice any flurry of activity or blasts of cold air from what, at first, seemed like a poorly placed table squeezed in just so the restaurant could make more money. The server was prompt and polite and responsive to all questions and requests. He had admitted he never tried the Duck (the restaurant is only one month old after all) so I felt that after such a good meal I owed it to him to tell him that it was one of the most delicious dishes I've ever tasted.

I temporarily forgot that I was only one mile away from my house and thought that I was on a night out on the town in Lodo, but without Lodo prices. Thank you, Stapleton, for allowing the Berkshire to take up residence and finally following through on your word to be more "Urb!"

Grade: A
Price: Sandwiches ($7 - $9.50), Entrees ($14 - $19)
Hours: 4 pm - Close, Sunday Brunch at 11 am - 2 pm
Address: 7352 E. 29th Ave. in Denver (Stapleton)
Phone: 303-321-4010
Web: http://www.theberkshirerestaurant.com
Dining Style: Contemporary American
Atmosphere: Smart Casual