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Jus Cookin's home of those with a culinary passion

Contributed by: Daniel Smith/YourHub.com on 1/10/2008

Editor's note: Visit our Faces of Lakewood and Edgewater page, where YourHub.com staff and readers can introduce you to more people -- and a dog -- who make this part of the metro area what it is.

Larry Wheeler is a culinary juggler. Ask anyone who's seen him work early mornings at Jus Cookin's restaurant in Lakewood.

Around 6:30 a.m. Jan. 3, he's got four pots going on the stove -- gravy, potatoes, French onion soup and cream filling for the banana creme pies. Meanwhile, he's put fresh dough into the proofing cabinet so it rises properly, and in the oven, big rolls are being baked to rounded, golden perfection.

As general manager, one moment he's tending to payroll and checking personnel schedules in the office; the next he's back in the kitchen paying attention to those items on the massive stove, and the bread, and prepping other items for the day's menu.

The phone rings more than a few times -- he answers that too. He takes deliveries of supplies from a vendor, finishes taking inventory of what's needed in the pantry and contacts a local dairy. That's just for starters on this Thursday morning beforeJus Cookin'sopens at 11, and Larry says it's actually a little slower, being post-holiday time.

"One of the things about this job is you wear a lot of hats; you're never doing the same thing for a great length of time - I like that part of it," Wheeler says. "Working with the line cooks a little bit, working with customers out there, working with the servers and the hostess a little bit and that's one of the most fun parts of the day for me."

Jus Cookin's is owned by Steve and Char Modlich, a couple whose passion for the business and their customers is at the center of their lives, they say. Their Web site, www.juscookins.com, has astory that details how they met and fell in love at a restaurant. They and many of their staff have been together a long time, working at their passion and serving customers real comfort food from a seasonally-varied menu.

Jus Cookin's wasopened in 1988, and moved to its present location off Simms Avenue at Eighth Place in Lakewood in 2004. It's a place known for home-cooked comfort food -- everything made from scratch, with attention paid to healthy cuisine as well.

Steve Modlich and Larry are the head chefs in the kitchen; Char worries about marketing and a loyal staff of about 20 handles the rest, including line cooking, serving customers and the other details that make the tidy restaurant a place with frequent repeat customers.

The Modliches say they enjoy going the extra mile for his customers; from putting together special orders to giving recipe advice over the phone and making up take-home orders, now a large part of Jus Cookin's business. Steve says his personal satisfaction often involves doing special things like making a single, special pie for a customer. "We just do things like that," he says.

Wheeler paraphrases famous chef James Beard, who talked about making a memorable meal as the second most intimate thing you can do for someone -- one that touches all the senses.

"Think about some of your favorite memories of life," Wheeler says "they usually revolve around good food -- and people."


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Showing 1-5 of 5 comments
Submitted By: Linda Pohle
posted on 1/17/2008 @ 4:48:52 PM
Rated Story
I was bereft when Jus Cookin's, after 17 years, moved from its original location in Aurora--very near my home. Now I look forward to stopping at their wonderful new restaurant when coming back from the mountains for a Chinese chicken salad, liver and onions, pot pie, or one of the many other delicious and, I think, reasonably priced menu choices.
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Submitted By: Rosanna Patrona-Aurand
posted on 1/15/2008 @ 6:08:50 AM
(Not Rated)
Nice article! I know Steve, Char, Larry and most of the crew.....what a great group! They have many devoted customers, including me and my family, and I love recommending their restaurant to my friends, and giving gift cards out. Some of my favorites are the trout, banana cream pie, and the St. Patrick's Day corned beef celebration. Thanks for highlighting this establishment!
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Submitted By: jack patrona
posted on 1/14/2008 @ 5:22:22 PM
Rated Story
Best food in Colorado. The coobler is to die for.
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Submitted By: Mike Burns
posted on 1/10/2008 @ 6:50:52 PM
Rated Story
Way over-priced and the food is not very good! Two big thumbs down!!
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Submitted By: Katherine Jerome
posted on 1/10/2008 @ 4:34:48 PM
Rated Story
They have the best chicken pot pie on the planet!
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Showing 1-5 of 5 comments
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