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Contributed by:
Toni Barnett
on 3/14/2006
With the veil of Communist Russia twenty years gone, it comes as no surprise that a strong interest in traveling around the former “Eastern Block” has become increasingly popular. Not only are the cities and villages of the Czech Republic and Hungary ageless and enchanting, they also represent the celebrations of freedom and choice and stand as relics of constantly changing times.
Prague and Budapest are among the most stunning jewels amidst these great European cities. These capitals all have rich traditions in art, music, architecture, and cuisine. These were the focus of our recent trip to Eastern Europe. We also included Vienna and Salzburg, as it seemed like a good fit. Although each of these cites held a special charm for me, for purposes of space limitations, I will concentrate on the Czech Republic’s city of Prague.
Enchanted by storybook neighborhoods and a castle that crowns the skyline, Prague has been described as a fairy tale city. Fairy tale yes- but Prague is also the place where twenty-seven defenestrates (a habit unique to Prague, when political opposition leaders were hurled from windows to their death) were executed, their heads impaled on pikes on the nearby Charles Bridge. Prague abounds in these kinds of tales of intrigue and murders, mythical and true, commemorated with statues and markers that are reminders of stories full of romance and secret plottings. These stories were sure to have influenced the city’s literary hero, Franz Kafka, who spent virtually all his life within steps of Old Town Square.
Just stand in the heart of old town square and take in the blend of architectural elements. A cacophony of Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Art Nouveau bears witness to the multi layered spot that once served as a medieval market place.
History is literally layered underground in the Old Town area known as Josefov. A rush of angst swept over us the moment we stepped into the Old Jewish Cemetery. Rows of tomb stones crowd the area. Founded in the 15th century, the graveyard contains hundreds of grave stones, but far more people are buried there- in twelve layers. On the walls of the Pinkus Synagogue, thousands of names are listed with dates of birth and dates of transportation of those removed to Nazi concentration camps. But, perhaps the most amazing thing about the Jewish Quarter of old Town is that it exists. It was the Nazis plan, that once the Jews were eradicated from Europe, Prague would serve as a museum to the “extinct race“. Instead, Jewish life pulses here.
Today, in Old Town Square, tourists walk and pigeons flock .The square emanates a sense of cool retro-hippness. With coffee houses, night clubs and restaurants routinely packed.
A short walk from the square is the Charles Bridge. Built by Emperor Charles IV, the Charles Bridge has spanned the Vltava River for more then 600 years, delivering strollers from one side of the city to the other. Pedestrian traffic is thick, even on our gray September afternoon. But this bridge is more then a link to another part of the city- it‘s a destination in its own right.. With motor traffic banned, it is a park like setting a place for couples to steal a kiss under the distant lights of Prague castle; a stop to browse the stalls of paintings and crafts; or a place to take a photo of Prague Castle lit up at night.
Hike the steep path along Nerodova Street to Prague Castle. Here you will feel as if you stepped back in time, as you are dazzled by gargoyle facades, spectacular stained glass windows, and musty tombs. This is an area dense with architectural masterpieces including the Castle, St George’s Basilica and St Vitus’ Cathedral. Walk the 225 stair to the top of St Vitrus and you will be rewarded by amazing 360 degree views of the city and the multi-bridged Vlatava River.
Prague may be one of the most Romantic and picturesque cities in the world a reason why it is so often likened to Paris. If you would like more information about this area or the rest of my itinerary Budapest, Vienna, and Salzburg please call me at James TravelPOINTS, Peggy Wood 303 442-2340X237
Peggy Wood
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Toni Barnett
Boulder
, CO
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