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Restaurant review: "Gaslamp Grill" in Lakewood

Contributed by: Stan Dyer on 9/28/2007

Restaurant Review: Gaslamp Grill

By Stan Dyer

Located on the northeast corner of Alameda and Garrison in Lakewood, the Gaslamp Grill faces an uphill climb. Not only are they the new kids on the block, but they are also trying to sell an upscale idea in a neighborhood setting.

The restaurant opened earlier this year with the concept of "downtown dining without the drive," but, if you didn't know it was there, you might never stop in. The owners Scott Tallman and Scott Hybbeneth spent some money to remodel the old building and create something special in the heart of Lakewood, but long-time residents will find it difficult not to drive by the ghost of the former tenants. Once inside, however, patrons discover something entirely unexpected. In keeping with the downtown dining theme, the interior design is reminiscent of a LoDo establishment, and the menu is certainly not what one would expect in Lakewood.

It seems the menu changes with the season to reflect dishes suitable to the time of year. Although the Web site still shows the summer menu, we enjoyed selections from the fall menu when we visited recently for dinner. Dinner is served four days a week, Tuesday through Saturday, beginning at 5 p.m. We paid $13 for pumpkin ravioli, which fit perfectly into the seasonal concept and the restaurant's "American Cuisine with an Italian Influence." It was good and different, but I thought the portions were small, the presentation was weak, and my own raviolis were a little too hard. We were fortunate to have even that vegetarian choice. The menu is composed almost entirely of meat dishes, especially at dinner, with entrée prices varying from $13 to $24.

Lunch, served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday through Friday, offers a bit more choices. There are a number of paninos including a portabello for $8 and an eggplant for $9. All paninos come with herb fries and a choice of either a small salad or cole slaw. There are also four burger choices for $8 and four pizzetas, also for $8.

Brunch, served only on Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., offers breakfast selections starting in price from $6 for a basket of pastries and topping out at $12 for the Crab Benedict, or the American Breakfast, which is two eggs, hash browns, toast and a grilled sirloin. You can also get the American Breakfast for $6 with regular breakfast meats instead of the sirloin. The eggs are neither free-range, nor organic, but the brunch still looks like the restaurant's best deal.

We did not try the dessert menu, but the restaurant offers quite a selection. Chef Hybbeneth trained over 10 years in downtown restaurants working as a sous chef, dessert chef and head chef for a number of Denver establishments. The "Two Scotts" have a nice idea, and they certainly have the talent and experience to pull it off, but they will need to be more versatile in their offerings and more accommodating to their guests tastes if they are serious about making their new restaurant work. Dinner for four with drinks and one bottle of wine cost our group nearly $120. That might be moderately priced in New Orleans or even downtown, but it is cost prohibitive in the suburbs, even in Lakewood.

In a routine Health Inspection dated April 12, 2007, Gaslamp Grill received three violations: Code 04b - Improper concentration of sanitizer in the dishwasher rinse cycle

Code 09b - Food uncovered and unprotected from contamination with raw meat stored above prepared foods in the walk-in.

Code 14c - Rough and unfinished walls, ceilings and floors in the rear of the kitchen.

The Gaslamp Grill, 9199 W. Alameda Parkway in Lakewood, (303) 233-2346 is located right on the northeast corner of Alameda and Garrison in front of the church. Their website is www.gaslampgrill.com, or you can email the chef at shybbs@msn.com. The restaurant is available for parties and large groups by phoning Scott at 303-829-1177.

Grade the restaurant up for courage, comfort and promise. Grade them down for value, variety and that health Inspection report. Overall, "B+" is the best I can do and even that's a stretch. I'm going back in a month or two for a follow up to see how they are improving. If I were a meat-eater, especially seafood, I would probably like the restaurant better. I need someone else to try their meat and seafood dishes to let me know how they rate.


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Showing 1-5 of 5 comments
Submitted By: Gary Stuckey
posted on 11/1/2007 @ 10:30:25 AM
(Not Rated)
Having eaten 2 lunches at the Gaslamp Grill, I disagree that they were not worth the price. I found the food interesting, tasty, fresh, and well-prepared. The service was attentive but not obtrusive and the ambiance pleasing. The portions were adequate, although not the overly-large piles of mediocrity so common in restaurants today. While the prices are a bit above the norm, I believe that the over-all experience as well as the quality of the meals make dining at the Gaslamp Grill a good value. I look forward to returning for both lunch and dinner.
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Submitted By: Lisa Scott
posted on 10/1/2007 @ 2:27:40 PM
Rated Story
I have eaten at the Gaslamp several times and I agree with Lorna that it is a wonderful and much-needed addition to Lakewood. It is better than your review in my opinion. As far as your comment on the size of the entrees, I, for one, am so tired of chain restaurants that serve entrees way too large for one person and so ordinary tasting that you end up taking more than half home only to throw it away days later. What a waste. Gaslamp serves reasonably-sized meals that are very unique. You won't find anything like them at Olive Garden or Chilis. My recent favorite is the spicy chicken salad - the mix of flavors was incredible and totally different from anything else in Lakewood. I also think the prices are very reasonable, particularly on the lunch menu. I am so glad Gaslamp opened here and I encourage others to try it for themselves. Let's support this local treasure instead of opting for another chain restaurant where everything always tastes the same.
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Submitted By: Stan Dyer
posted on 9/30/2007 @ 1:46:49 AM
Rated Story
I am pleased Lorna Fox likes the Gaslamp. Everyone is entitled to an opinion. Nonetheless, I still think B+ is a very fair mark.
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Submitted By: Lorna Fox
posted on 9/29/2007 @ 5:00:42 PM
Rated Story
I know it is difficult for vegetarian diners to find great choices at many restaurants. For those of us who are not vegetarians, however, the Gaslamp Grill is GREAT! I recently tried the grilled swordfish with couscous. It was perfectly done and really a wonderful entree. The current menu has a new salad--butter lettuce with pears and cranberries with a dressing that is simply amazing. My husband and I visit the Gaslamp Grill regularly and have never been disappointed. For many reasons, the Gaslamp Grill is a wonderful addition to Lakewood's dining scene. It is not a chain, the menu changes with the season, the ingredients are fresh and well-prepared,the waitstaff is very attentive and the atmosphere is relaxing and cozy. Try it for dinner. I think you'll love it! P.S. The portions are generous enough that we have never managed to sample the desserts--what a shame! They look wonderful.
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Submitted By: Erin Feese
posted on 9/28/2007 @ 9:53:39 AM
Rated Story
Thanks for your take, Stan. For more thoughts on the Gaslamp Grill, see Peter Robinson's column at http://denver.yourhub.com/Lakewood/Stories /Sound-Off/General-Sound-Off/ Story~298184.aspx
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Showing 1-5 of 5 comments
CONTRIBUTOR INFORMATION

Stan Dyer

Arvada , CO

Stan Dyer has posted 881 stories and 107 comments since joining on 9/14/2005. Stan Dyer 's average story rating is 4.92.
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