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Much ado about cassoulet: The origin of a name
Contributed by: Leslie Young on 3/29/2006

Much Ado About Cassoulet

When my two sisters and I, plus one - Elizabeth McVay - decided to open a culinary center, selecting a name became of paramount importance. Many ideas and much discussion ensued when the word "cassoulet" was thrown into the mix. As the ultimate end to our business is to provide freezer to table entrees for our customers and a "casserole" is a popular end to that means, and assumably, casserole is an offshoot to the French word cassoulet, Cassoulet Entrees was born.

I'm not sure exactly when we thought to actually look up the definition of cassoulet [ka-soo-LAY], but we have discovered that cassoulet is a classic dish from France's (we were so relieved to establish we did have the correct country of origin) Languedoc region consisting of white beans and various meats (such as sausages, pork and preserved duck or goose). The combination varies according to regional preference. A cassoulet is covered and cooked very slowly to harmonize the flavors.

Our next step was to actually prepare a cassoulet. This was no small feat undertaken by our chef, Elizabeth. Her day-long labors were well rewarded, however, and we enjoyed a remarkable meal accompanied by Cafaro Syrah, a delightful wine recommended to us by Estate Fine Wines as part of our first Wednesday Wine Tasting.

Cassoulet (serves 10 to 12)

3/4 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-1/2-inch cubes
3/4 pound boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-1/2-inch cubes
1 pound mild Italian garlic sausage, cut into 2-inch pieces
4 chicken thighs
5 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1-1/2 cups red wine
1 can (14.5 ounces) low-sodium beef broth
1 cup slab bacon (1/2-inch dice)
1 cup chopped yellow onion
1-1/2 cups chopped, peeled carrot
1 large fennel bulb, tops removed, halved lengthwise,
cored, and thinly sliced crosswise
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste
4 cans (15 ounces each) Great Northern beans, drained
and rinsed
1/4 cup unseasoned dried bread crumbs
Sour cream for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350. Arrange the pork, lamb, sausage, and chicken in a large roasting pan or on a rimmed baking sheet large enough to spread out the meat without crowding. Drizzle 4 tablespoons of the olive oil over the meats, season with salt and pepper, and then toss to coat the meats evenly. Roast the meats until they are tender and brown, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven, transfer the meat to a large plate or baking dish, and set aside.

Drain off any accumulated fat from the pan and discard. While the pan is still warm, add the wine and beef broth. Using the back of a wooden spoon, stir to free up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Pour the wine mixture into a separate container and set aside.

In a heavy, 3-quart saucepan over medium heat, cook the bacon, stirring frequently, until well browned and the fat is rendered, 10 to 12 minutes. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat. Add the onion, carrot, and fennel to the pan and saut stirring frequently, until the vegetables are lightly browned and softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add three fourths of the garlic, the bay leaf, and the thyme and saut for 2 minutes longer. Add the wine mixture and simmer until reduced by one third, about 8 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and ketchup. Add the beans, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring frequently, until some of the liquid is absorbed and the mixture is no longer soupy, about 10 minutes.

Transfer the bean mixture to an attractive 8-quart oven-to-table baking dish (now you know why the French created those muscle-building, hard-to-find-a-place-to-store cast iron baking dishes!). Arrange the roasted meats on top and press them into the beans. Cover the casserole and bake at 350 until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs, the teaspoon salt, the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and the remaining minced garlic. When the meat is tender, remove the baking dish from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 425. Sprinkle the bread crumb mixture evenly over the surface and return the dish to the oven. Bake, uncovered, until the bread crumbs are nicely browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve with sour cream for spooning on top.

Of course, if you are truly a purist of the cassoulet, tradition requires that you top each individual serving with a prepared duck leg.

Clearly, this is not a meal you can throw into the oven at a moment's notice; but with a little planning and a free afternoon, the rewards reaped from enjoying a good cassoulet are numerous.

Leslie Young and Elizabeth McVay are the owners of Cassoulet Entrees, a Littleton business that provides freezer to table entrees so people can eat well without slaving away in the kitchen. Visit their Web site at www.cassouletentrees.com. E-mail them at info@cassouletentrees.com or call them at 303-979-COOK.



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