Have you ever researched the history of Mexican cuisine? I have. The information is very vague and probably more deductive than factual. No matter where you look, you will find information about how native dishes and customs combined with the influence of Cortez and other Spaniards to produce a constantly changing array of hybrid dishes including an assortment of favorites from a variety of regions and tastes. Well, except for the names and the recorded history, that can be said of just about any cuisine. No matter where you go, people will put their own spin on it and be certain theirs is not only the best way, but also the only way to serve it. This fact is very apparent in the variety of Mexican food available in Colorado.

At one time in history, parts of southern Colorado were the furthest northern reaches of the Spanish and, later, Mexican empires. Many different cultures coexisted (and not always contentedly) in the region, learning from each other and exchanging aspects of each other's culture. This custom continued and extended even into the new millennium.

There was a time in my life when I had a good idea just exactly what Mexican food was. Now, I am not so sure. I never thought of Mexican food as sweet, and then I was introduced to sopapillas, flan and Mexican candy. Later, I discovered new names and new recipes for some Mexican standards whose names and recipes I thought were set in stone. Where once it was just Mexican, now there is New Mexico style, Tex-Mex, traditional and California Mexican, just to name a few. Even restaurants serving the cuisine suffer identity crises and you may find dishes featuring more than one or all of the styles. About all a diner can be certain of is that a Mexican restaurant's menu will include dishes made with corn, beans, rice and tortillas. After than, just about anything goes, and the envelope gets pushed further and further every day.

With that in mind, how does one choose a favorite Mexican restaurant? It's not easy, and, with the number and variety to choose from, it may take a while to settle on just one. In fact, many people may never ever settle on just one. Nonetheless, here are two I tried recently:

Tres Margaritas Family Mexican Restaurant

805 Wadsworth Blvd.

Denver, CO 80214

303-232-2562

This restaurant is the traditional, sit-down type, and I have visited it many times. The chain originated in Fort Collins, but there are a number of franchises around the state and all serve basically the same food. I visit this location because I am happy with the level of service, cleanliness and product value. I am fond of the Sizzling Fajitas Vegetarianas. Even at $9.50, it is a good value since there is enough food there for two. The margaritas are inconsistent, sometimes sweet and sometimes just right, but, overall, pretty good. A number of good vegetarian options are available.

Little Anitas New Mexican Foods

5545 Wadsworth Blvd.

Arvada, CO 80001

720-974-3200

Even though this restaurant has four locations, this newest location is my first opportunity to sample their offerings. At this restaurant, you order at the counter, take a number, and, in a few moments, your food is brought to your table. After one visit, I was pleased with the overall quality of the product, the level of service, the value and the cleanliness of the restaurant. One woman at the counter knew the menu well, which items were vegetarian, and which items were offered, but were not on the menu. They serve vegetarian tamales, but they are different from any I have had before. The product resembles more of a polenta than the tamales wrapped in cornhusks that I am used to. Also, the spicier "red" sauce resembles enchilada sauce more than anything else, and it is a bit spicy for people with milder tastes. I need to try this restaurant a few more times before making a decision, but, for the time being, it seems safe. Try it and let me know what you think.

I cannot really say that both of these are my favorites, but both are representative of what the state has to offer, and the variety is remarkably better than other states, including Louisiana. Don't get me wrong. I like them both, but I am still searching for that one place that really knocks my socks off time and again. When I find it, you can be sure I will let you know.